Parts That Are Required:
Underdrive/Lightened Pulley
Gates Serpentine Belt (Part Number K060408 - Check the pulley manufacturer for verification)
Gates Power Steering Belt (Part Number K040300 - Check the pulley manufacturer for verification)
Parts That Are Optional:
Nissan crankshaft seal (Ask your Nissan dealer for the specific part number)
Tools That Are Required:
Jack Stands
12mm short-shaft socket (1/2" recommended)
14mm short-shaft socket (1/2" recommended)
19mm long-shaft socket (1/2" recommended)
90° socket swivel (1/2" recommended)
60° socket swivel (1/2" recommended)
12" socket extension (1/2" recommended)
Socket wrench (1/2" recommended)
Torque socket wrench (1/2" recommended)
12" (minimum) Breaker bar (1/2" recommended) (ask for it at Sears or any other local hardware store)
Serpentine wrench with small 14mm open-ended-wrench socket (available at any auto parts store)
Eye goggles
Tools That Are Optional:
Impact wrench with 19mm (3/4") socket
An extra set of hands
Procedure:
Disclaimer/Warning: This information is provided as is and is for informational purposes only. There is no warranty made by the author, this web-site, this domain, or the internet provider(s) who make this site available. We are NOT RESPONSIBLE for damage done to any car, nor for typographical/procedural errors in this write-up. If you do not have the tools listed above, please do not attempt this install. If you do not have jack stands, DO NOT attempt this install. Failure to follow these warnings can cause serious injury or death. Please remember that your safety is first. Cars can be replaced, you cannot. Proceed at your own risk.
Note: You can click on the pictures to get a larger view.
Step 1: Jack up the car. Place jack stands under car and release jack SLOWLY to verify that jack stand is supporting the car, not making a hole in the floorboard.
Step 2: Remove the Passenger's front tire.
Step 3: Remove the small fenderwell covering that blocks the pulley. There are 2 plastic screws and 2 regular screws, all phillips. Three are visible from the side of the car, the other is visible from underneath
Step 4: Loosen the power steering locking bolt on the side of the power steering pulley using a 12mm open-ended socket wrench. The power steering pulley is the pulley closest to the rear of the car. It's very difficult to loosen at first, but once it's started, it's easy. The best access is from underneath the car, on the front side of the axel.
Step 5: Loosen the power steering pump rotator bolt using a 14mm socket, the 2 swivel adapters, and the 12" socket extension. This bolt is on the engine-side of the power steering pump. Access to this bolt is tricky, but can be done by placing the socket on a 90° swivel, and then placing the 90° swivel on a 60° socket swivel. Place the 2 swivels on the 12" extension. In order to find the bolt, insert your hand on the passenger's side of the Y pipe and reach up. When you reach the heat shield covering the headers, go towards the passenger's side of the car. There is the bolt.
Step 6: Loosen the power steering tension adjuster bolt using a 12mm socket. You must turn the bolt clockwise (or in the tighten position) to loosen it. The bolt is threaded backwards from a standard bolt. This bolt is facing the ground, and is within 1-2 inches of the power steering locking bolt.
Note: At this point, the power steering belt should come off the power steering pulley, but not off the crankshaft pulley. You'll see that the main belt is in the way.
Step 7: Loosen the idler pulley bolt using a 14mm serpentine wrench. This bolt is in the center of the idler pulley. The idler pulley is the center pulley when looking from the sky downward into the engine bay. It is also the only pulley that is not threaded.
Step 8: Loosen the idler pulley tension adjuster bolt using a 14mm socket and 12" extension. Turn the bolt counter-clockwise to remove tension (normal bolt pattern - righty-tighty, lefty-loosen).
Note: At this point, you should be able to remove the main belt, then the power steering belt. Now the crankshaft pulley is ready to be removed.
Step 9: To remove the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to setup the breaker bar with the 19mm socket on it. Line the socket up with the pulley. Place the breaker bar vertical, with the handle pointing downward and in front of the front axel. Rotate the breaker bar towards the axel until it is pressing up next to the axel (or close). To remove the crankshaft pulley, gently "blip" your starter a couple of times. Basically, turn the key to start the car for 1/100th of a second (long enough to move the crankshaft and starter, but not long enough to actually start the car). The pulley bolt will come loose.
Step 10: Remove the pulley bolt.
Step 11: Using both hands, remove the stock pulley.
Note: Notice the weight difference between the stock and the aftermarket pulley.
Step 12: Using the same type of oil that is currently in your engine, rub oil around the outer edge of the pulley where it will meet the crankshaft. This will ensure that no metal-to-metal contact problems arise.
Note: If you are changing the seal, now is the time to do so. Instructions are not provided because it's basically self-explanatory
Step 13: Using the notch as a guide, insert the new pulley onto the crankshaft and press firmly with both hands to ensure proper seating. Ensure that the pulley is resting all the way against the crankshaft.
Note: To ensure proper seating, remove the crankshaft pulley and re-insert it again. The first time the metals meet, there may be a small area of the new pulley that is not oiled. Removal allows the oil on the crankshaft to transfer to the non-oiled spots of the new pulley.
Step 14: Using Locktite 242 (or 245), pour a small amount on the threads of the crankshaft pulley's screw. This will ensure a tight connection and prevent accidental loosening of the bolt.
Step 15: Using a socket wrench, tighten the crankshaft pulley to 140 ft/lbs. If you have an impact wrench, use the torque wrench first, then use the impact wrench for an extra little kick. Do NOT use the impact wrench to initially tighten the bolt, as the initial shock cause damage to the crankshaft and it's connected parts.
Note: You may need someone to put the car into gear (without starting it) and step on the brake in order to prevent the entire crankshaft from turning.
Step 16: Route the power steering belt around the crankshaft pulley, then around the power steering pulley
Note: Take the car out of gear, and use a 19mm socket wrench on the crankshaft pulley to turn the pulleys in order to work the belts onto the pulleys. Be sure only to turn the crankshaft clockwise.
Step 17: Route the main belt around the everything except the crankshaft pulley. Using the 19mm wrench, rotate the crankshaft clockwise while pressing the belt onto the pulley.
Note: Be sure to keep pressing on the belt at the idler pulley. If you do not press on the belt (to keep it on the idler pulley), then the belt will pop off. This is where an extra set of hands is helpful.
Step 18: Adjust the 12mm power steering tension adjuster bolt that you loosened in step 6. This will tighten the belt. Remember that the bolt is threaded backwards, so you'll want to turn counter-clockwise to tighten. Be sure that the belt has a little room to play, but not too much. Nissan recommends no more than 4mm of movement.
Step 19: Tighten the 14mm power steering pump rotator bolt that you loosened in step 5.
Step 20: Tighten the 12mm power steering pump locking bolt that you loosened in step 4.
Step 21: Adjust the 14mm idler pulley tension adjuster bolt that you loosened in step 8. This will tighten the belt. Be sure that the belt has a little room to play, but not too much. Nissan recommends no more than 7mm of movement.
Step 22: Tighten the 14mm idler pulley bolt that you loosened in step 7.
Step 23: Reinstall the fenderwell you removed in step 3.
Step 24: Reinstall the tire onto the car. Once bolts are tightened, lower the car slightly to put a minimum amount of weight on the wheel. Tighten the lug nuts again.
Step 25: Start the car, but allow it to idle. Do not rev the engine for a minimum of two minutes. This will allow the belts time to get proper seating and conditioning on the pulleys.
Final Step: Enjoy the new pulley. Be gentle on the car for the first few miles, then open her up. Remember, safety is first, so stop the car if anything sounds or feels wrong.
Here are some side-by-side pulley comparisons:
